Vlieland.

Vlieland is one of the Wadden Islands off the northern Dutch coast, a small sand-bar island with a long open North Sea beach on its western side. Two surf spots run the strip: Seeduyn, in front of the hotel, and Dam 20, further west and harder to reach. Cars are only allowed for residents; everyone else cycles or walks. The ferry from Harlingen takes 90 minutes. The island is the alternative to Scheveningen: more exposure, fewer people, and a long walk between you and a hot shower.

The North Sea is closed-fetch water and only fires when storms cross it. Peak runs autumn through winter, when north-west wind swell pushes the open beach and the sandbanks rebuild after each event. Working size is 0.5 to 1.5 m at short period. Offshore is south to south-east. The island works at all tides, and the sandbanks shift with each storm. September through November is when the bigger swells start to arrive and the summer crowds have left.

Water runs 3 to 9 °C in February, 16 to 20 °C in August, the same as Scheveningen. A 5/4 with hood, gloves, and booties through deep winter; a 4/3 in shoulder seasons. There are no surf schools, no rental boards, no shops. Bring everything. Cycle to Dam 20 with a board on the rack; the access path from the road is a twenty-minute walk over dunes. The reward is empty water on a swell that would have you elbows-out at Scheveningen.